Monday 16 September 2013

Three Days in Provence...

...is not nearly long enough!
 
Strange how music and television can influence us.  I was still very young when I saw a dubbed television programme called "Die meisie van Avignon" (The girl from Avignon) in  the late 1970's and I have been wanting to visit Avignon ever since.  Then I heard the 1969 Peter Sarstedt hit "Where do you go to my lovely", and I was hooked on the region, made a promise to myself that I would one day visit the South of France to see what Avignon looks like and experience the Côte d'Azur.
 


 
With this in mind, and still on a bit of a high from our Leonard Cohen concert the previous night we got up very early on Sunday, 25th August to start the next leg of our European adventure.  Humming "So long, Marianne" to ourselves, we hopped on the first of three trains for the day...  Off to Provence to meet Cameron and company for his 50th birthday celebrations on the Monday.
 
I love train journeys, but I must admit that the romance of it wears off if you have exactly six minutes to gather all your luggage, jump off the train, run like mad to find the correct platform, board the next (and correct!) train, stow your luggage and find your assigned seats. 

Having first-hand experience of the precise Swiss transportation system and having been warned that, if we miss the second of our three trains, we will have a lot of trouble getting to Avignon on the same day, we ran between the two trains like insane people, dragging luggage, umbrellas and backpacks across the length of the station, down stairs, up escalators and into the next train carriage, just in time before the doors clunked shut behind us, literally with seconds to spare. 
 
Having cut my foot slightly on the escalator and thoroughly irritated with all the uncalled for exercise, I went into a sulk and slept the rest of the way, to be woken up in time to grab the luggage and repeat the same process for the last leg of our trip. 

Strangely enough, the second train left the Swiss station exactly on time, travelled the correct speed, by all accounts did not linger at any stops en route, but arrived at the French station twenty minutes late, so we were convinced that we missed the next connection.  Not so.  The French railway system is much more relaxed, it seems, and despite our panicked mad dash across the station, past Customs (where I did not have my passport stamped*) and despite being twenty minutes late, we still departed on the correct train for Avignon!
 
 
Arrived at Avignon station, rented a teeny-tiny little clown car (AKA a Citroen C1) and off we were again, to find our accommodation for the night in a small but lovely little town called Orange.  The decision to stay in Orange was two-fold: one, it was within spitting distance of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and, two, I love orange.  As soon as I saw a town called Orange on the map, I decided that I had to be completely surrounded by my favourite colour, even if for just once in my life!
 
For some reason we did not take any pictures of Orange.  We stayed in a gorgeous little Bed 'n Breakfast, we walked and walked the cobble-stoned streets of the town, passed massive chestnut trees and drinking fountains, we ate in a cosy restaurant mostly frequented by locals, so not a touristy place at all, but for some reason the camera stayed in the backpack the whole time.  Oh, correction, I took a picture of my food.  So, one picture taken in the very picturesque town of Orange.  Shame! 


The food was wonderful, but way too cutesy:  Fillet of beef with foie gras in a pastry parcel, some green stuff in the form of an upside-down muffin, a note (literally) of balsamic reduction and then some other veggie-type stuff I did not recognise fully but it was yummy, none the less!
 
 
On Monday morning we set off to the Chateauneuf-du-Pape vineyards and met our friends Cameron, his wife Claudia and the rest of their tour group (they were in the middle of a Mediterranean cruise) at the Cuvée du Vatican winery for a glimpse into wine making and, of course, a wine tasting.  The tour was very interesting and the tasting went by in a blur.  Then off to the nearby Chateau des Fines Roches for a superb lunch. 



 




Three Condies and a Wombat: 
Cameron, Claudia, Callum and Lorraine


After a deliciously boozy lunch we waved the Condies and company goodbye, promised to see them again in Rome and made our merry way back to the B'nB for a much needed siesta.



Lunch with a view!
 
 
Early Tuesday morning we pointed the nose of our little clown car in the direction of the French Riviera.  Côte d'Azur, here we come!
 
Later this week:  The Azure Coast and Avignon.
 
*  The borders between Switzerland and France, and between France and Italy seemed very fluid as my passport was not checked at any of these border crossings.  Found myself a little bit disappointed, as I now only have Swiss entry and Italian exit stamps in the passport to show for the trip!

 

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